Epilogue

 

So, the ride is done.  When we plotted out the ride, we calculated it at 2045 miles.  We actually bicycled 1897 miles, and had 148 miles of “assists” – pickup rides or public transit.  As Diane noted on Facebook, if this had been her first bicycle tour, she would not have had the courage to do another one.  After we completed our Kitty-Corner ride across America in 2011, she announced it was her last road trip, but Rob convinced her to ride again.   (Never say never, Rob.)

The trip was unexpectedly arduous, but we did get stronger along the way.  Each day had its joys, and we always found something to laugh about. 

PS. A few unshared photos.

There are always more photos taken than shared - especially when you are trying to tell the story of the day.  Below are a few additional shots for your consideration.





My favorite pic of Diane this trip. (We try to patronize local establishments when we can. But Dunkin Donut was the only viable breakfast option one morning - Diane loves her coffee!

It very important to thank all of the people who helped us along the way... and there was a bunch. This photo of local campaign workers (who were visiting small towns to plant campaign signs) giving us a lift beyond a piece of particularly bad road. It's offered as an acknowledgement of thanks to all.



 





The last three days of this tour we rode hard and put up the bicycles wet - not even stopping for good air. Our bikes and panniers were covered with a fine sheen of road greasy and grime.  And Diane's favorite jersey and Rob's shoes tell the tale.

And we were pretty much running out of everything.

 

 

But that is not the image we want to leave you with. On all of trips there are always pictures of wildflowers.  Given this was a fall ride, wildflowers did not appear.........

....until the morning of last day's ride.  This photo is offered as bouquet to those of you who have faithfully followed our blog. Diane and Rob.

 



 



The Last Hard Ride!

Thursday, October 16.  Waterville to Bangor

 The day was supposed to be an easy 52 miles.  That changed when rain threatened to inundate us, and we altered our route (as recommended by Google Map's bicycle function), adding 8 miles hoping for a quicker ride because of less hills.  Google Map's route was a total fail.  The route proved to be much hillier, including a packed dirt road that was wet but not yet too slippery to ride.  And to add insult, we rode a stretch of road covered with manure slurry (thank goodness for fenders).

 

AND, We biked in rain anyway, although not a downpour.  We came to a service station/convenience store/deli that was also having troubles.  It was colder inside than out,  so we had a quick hot chocolate, and Diane changed out of her wet jersey and gloves to a dry set, and off we went again. 

 

We grinded our way into late afternoon -- finally, we saw the sign “Bangor” and took our classic end-of-ride picture as we crossed the bridge from Bangor to Brewer.  Not too much further, but up a final hill, we reached our destination, Vacationland Inn.  We chose this hotel due to its proximity to Pat’s Bikeshop and a U.S. Post Office, so we could easily ship bikes and gear home.  Although we did not realize it until registering, it’s also close to great Italian and Japanese restaurants.  Fortunately we got settled in before the rains hit again.  By morning we awoke to a heavy downpour.  In the end we did beat the really heavy rain into Bangor.

 

Early in the day, the route change seemed to be paying off. We flew down the road with the wind.

Rob remained vigilant for moose - especially as we traveled the Moosehead Trail. But no luck.

(Your fall color photo of the day.)

 

Diane, the conqueror....... beating the

 ......evening rain in Bangor.



Ain't no truly easy west to east rides in Maine.

Wednesday, October 15.  Wilton to Waterville

 

Anita prepared a great breakfast, including gluten free pancakes for Diane, sending us off sufficiently sated to run the morning.  Today was a staging-in day for the last day’s ride.  We anticipated a 38-mile ride, but altered our route, adding 5 more miles, but less hills, and better highway and shoulders.  The Pleasant Street Inn, in Waterville, was a welcome sight, though, after the last few miles, which comprised rough roads, and city traffic.  We were the first guests to arrive and everything was ready for us, so we reheated Diane’s leftovers from last night for a tasty lunch.  Later, we had a pleasing meal at the Thai Bistro, and then ventured a few doors down to the Amicis Cucina for dessert.  A great day! (I know, I know, eat, ride, eat, eat and ride again. Repeat!)

Part of the daily rituals, Diane resets here cycle computer to record the stats.

 

Rolling down Hwy 2. Later in the day we end our relationship with this road which has carried us across 3 states.

 

Every town has one - a cemetery.  In the South the graves are above ground because of the high water tables. In the Midwest and East they always on a hill. They range from family plots in the Kentucky hill country, to small ones associated with community churches, to large communal cemeteries which according to one historical marker in Vermont seem to have been first established in New England.   They have become part of the Halloween tradition and therefore (at least for some of us) associated with Fall harvest celebrations.  It is this sense of celebration that tomorrow we put this Fall ride to rest.  

Yeah We would Ride 65 miles (again) for that Italian Meal

Tuesday, October 14.  Gorham to Wilton

A pleasant and satisfying breakfast at Welsh’s restaurant, while Rob previewed for Diane the anticipated hills of the day.  And then we were off -- looking to leave New Hampshire and cross into Maine! 

 

It was a strong 65-mile ride, and yes, there were hills, but not the horrid kind we had been riding -- although there were a few crawlers.  The vistas were beautiful as was the scenic Androscoggin River, which we followed eastward a good portion of the way.  There were lots of vacant, and ostensibly abandoned, homes along the highway.  We did not see any moose.  Diane thought for moment that she spied one, but quickly realized she was looking at a rather regal portion of a fallen tree. 

 

In the middle of the day, Rob's bike seemed to "get in the Halloween spirit" by beginning to give off a low eerie howling sound that was at first infrequent but became more persistent. When the problem did not become evident with an inspection, Rob resorted to the classic approach - spray the hell out of every possible candidate with WD-40.  This did seem to mostly quiet the sound so we pressed on.  Later Rob ferreted out the source of the sound.  The back panniers were pressing the tool kit bag which in turn was pressing the rear brake cable causing the rear brakes pads on occasion to graze along the rear wheel causing the low pitched howling.

 

It was just getting dark when we reached Wilton, and the lovely Bass Hill Bed and Breakfast where we were warmly greeted by the owner, Anita. She recommended we dine at the Calzolaio Pasta Co. that was an easy walk, just down the hill from her home.  So glad we did – lots of gluten-free options for Diane.  Another night of gluttony, joined in by Diane this time.  But she had the good sense to take a portion of it back to the B&B to transport the next day and have for lunch.  Yummy!

 

The Halloween bike in front of the Top Notch Inn.

 

The last New Hampshire stream before ...........

 



.... we enter Maine!

 

 The White Mountain Forest.



Racing sundown to end the day's ride in Wilton, Maine.

Not a Fast Fifty, but Well Ridden

Monday, October 13.  St. Johnsbury to Gorham

Omigosh.  The hills of New Hamshire are in full color – what a treat.  The color, that is, not the hills.  Yes, they do go on and on.  There was a walker today.  And there were several crawlers, one roller, and multiple riders. 

 

But it was a great ride!  We started our day by walking the bikes through .5 miles of road construction, then hopped on and rode a few blocks to the local diner, where we had a good breakfast, including gluten-free toast for Diane and Vermont maple syrup for Rob (which he shared).

 

Then we hopped on our bikes again—by this time it was 9:00 a.m. and 35 degrees.  But we were never cold because we began climbing immediately.  We rode through moose-crossing countryside, but saw no moose.  Darn.  But at the top of each climb there were unbelievable Fall vistas!  About twenty miles into the day, close to the Vermont/NH border, we took a side road to go through the Mt. Orne Covered Bridge, and then followed the river into Lancaster, NH.  We ate lunch from our pack in a laundromat (Diane’s idea to stay warm while eating), and then continued on. 

 

Rob uses an app on his android phone that graphs the elevation gains and losses between points, so we knew we had some big hills climb and one long descent outside of Gorham.  When we saw that last hill coming up, we each thought to ourselves (later confirmed) “that’s a walker.”  But instead it was a crawler, because of a new smooth surface and two lanes plus a wide shoulder going up. So new, that the only markings on the highway were the double yellow  lines dividing the two-way traffic.  What a difference the surface makes.  Also, by this time we had a gentle tail wind that helped whisper us up.  The top was about four miles from the hotel; the downhill comprised a two mile 8% grade followed by a two mile 6% grade.  Diane braked, but Rob let it rip, reaching 42.5 mph. 

 

The Top Notch Inn proved to be nice home away from home, and dinner next door, “J’s Corner Restaurant” provided an opportunity for gluttony (for Rob, that is; Diane ate sensibly).

Tomorrow, we experience our last day in NH and our first day in Maine. 

 

A little road construction to start our day.

 

Looking for Moose, but to no avail.

 

Mt. Orne covered bridge.

 

And since we are featuring structures, note the "flying buttresses" on the St. Agnes Catholic Church in New Hampshire - an omage to the great cathedrals of Europe.

 



But back to Fall Colors and ....

... a great smile.....

..... even up a crawler.

 

This is how you beat the Vermont mountains

Sunday, October 12.  Williston to St. Johnsburg

Another 70 mile day.  This one with a very satisfying result.

 

Started with a good breakfast, and pushed off at 8:40.  Nine hours later, we had arrived at the outskirts of St. Johnsburg, discovering the highway up the hill to the town was under construction.  We called the bed and breakfast where we had reservations, and were informed by the owner that she had no information showing we had reservations, and she had no room available.  Imagine the shock and frustration!  But we had stopped at the intersection adjacent to Fairbanks Inn.    Luckily, there was a vacancy – a king, nonsmoking!  Also, because the local pizza place delivers and has gluten free pizza, guess what we had for dinner! 

 

Today we had no mechanical difficulties or flats.  We rode strong, notwithstanding the hills.  Diane now classifies hills into four categories – rollers, riders, crawlers, and walkers (Rob has suggest one other category - Oh, hell no.  We didn’t have any walker hill!  We had a few rollers and several crawlers (the kind that are 2-mile long pulls with  passing lanes and require usage of our lowest gears), but most hills today were “riders” – that is, moderate quarter-mile hills that do not require your lowest gears.   

 

The scenery was absolutely spectacular.  The temperature was about right for the vigorous activity—on the warm side going uphill and on the cool side going down.  We enjoyed a too-leisurely lunch at a picnic table adjacent to and provided by a general store.  Too leisurely, because by the time we arrived St. Johnsburg, it was close to sunset.  At one of our rest stops after a crawler, about ten miles from our destination, a young man on a mountain bike appeared, seemingly out of nowhere.  He was biking a new trail, not yet completely surfaced, that goes into St. Johnsburg.  He recommended we take it for the next two miles, which we did.  This cut off one, and two thirds of another  crawler.  And then we began a very fast and cold eight mile descent into town. 

 

All in all a very successful day.  Tomorrow we leave Vermont, and spend one night in New Hampshire.

 

Early in the day we rolled through farmlands and by the pumpkin stands.

 

 

Your Fall colors shot of the day.

 

Diane kicks butt in Vermont.

 

 



Hills!, Hills!, Flat, Flat, Bus, Bus, Walk in the Dark

Saturday, October 11:  Ticonderoga to Williston

What a day!  The 39 miles from Ticonderoga to the Essex Ferry took  6.5 hours of biking!  This snail pace is a result to two factors:  (1) terrain, road surface and shoulders, and high traffic density; and (2) two flats on Diane’s rear tire.  The road was miserable – continuous long steep hills, narrow to non-existent shoulders, and rutted highway.  New York calls this road “Bike Route 9.”  Ha!  Our down time was an hour and twenty minutes, due to (a) repairing the flats and stops for good air; (b) Diane’s need to walk the remainders of two really steep hills; and (c) meal, rest, and comfort breaks. 

 

We arrived at the Essex Ferry Dock just in time for the 4:00 P.M. ferry across Lake Champlain to the Charlotte, VT dock, a twenty minute trip.   Concerned that nightfall would come on before we could bike the remaining 24 miles or so to our hotel in Williston, Rob began an internet search for public transportation options.  Turns out there were bus links that would get us close to the hotel, if we were able to catch a 5:28 bus at a stop about 8 miles from the Charlotte ferry docks, and if the bus had bike racks (and if Google Maps was correct about Saturday service).  We made it! 

 

The first bus was running a few minutes late, but when it arrived we were happy to see it had bike racks, and no bikes on them.  That bus took us to Burlington, and from there we transferred to a bus going to Williston.  The latter got us to within 0.7 of a mile from the hotel.  It was quite dark and a bit rainy when we disembarked and walked  our bikes to the motel.  When we got there, the receptionist and manager both told us they had overbooked, so rebooked us to another hotel.  We stood firm, and they relented, so we settled in at 7:40 p.m.  Rob had bike maintenance chores – repair the two tubes, tighten the wheel bearings on Diane’s front wheel, and general inspection of the bikes.  Diane did the laundry, bottle washing, and general prep for the next day.   We were exhausted but ready to take on another day.

 

 

Diane churns up of the many hills with no time to enjoy the fall colors.

 

Passing through small hamlets with interesting artifacts of the past. Such as this facility used water power to manufacture who knows what.

 

Leaving NY state by ferry under darkening cloudy skies.

 

With twilight upon us, smiling at last as we know we will make it to our motel.

 

 



Early Fall colors with Late Fall temperatures

Friday, October 10:  Speculator to Ticonderoga

Our second and last day biking the Adirondacks, and another beautiful but cold day.  An early breakfast at a nearby diner, and on the road by 8:12 (the temperature was 37 degrees) , due to Rob’s “just saying.”  Off our bikes by 5:17 (the temperature had reached 52 degrees).  The 71.0 miles were covered fairly quickly, given there were considerable climbs, including a 1908 foot summit.   The total elevation loss between Speculator, at 1739 feet, and Ticonderoga, at 273 feet, does not tell the day’s story of hills after hills after hills, including two-mile pulls.  The elevation loss occurs primarily in the last five miles before Ticonderoga. 

We enjoyed some good roads, and suffered some bad ones; except for the fall colors and the beauty of the Adirondacks, it was a “get there” travel day.   Neither of us spotted any wildlife (we were hoping for a moose), except for the wooly caterpillars, which were less abundant today.  Again the day was cold, but not much wind, so it seemed warmer than yesterday.  Rain clouds threatened almost all day, but except for intermittent sprinkles it did not rain.  YAY! 

 

We stopped for an inside lunch at a meager café in Schroon Lake. Two customers  overheard our conversation with the wait staff about gluten-free menu items, and out of concern for her going hungry, gave Diane a Crispin apple.  Very satisfying!  Turns out the customers were from Syracuse, and run a studio for aspiring actors.  One of them is a recently retired Syracuse University drama professor.  We didn’t interact with anyone else during the ride, until the last long pull, which had a passing lane and a decent shoulder to boot.  Rob had already begun that ascent, when a local cyclist joined Diane.  He said, “I’ve heard lots of stories going up this hill with cyclists passing through.  What’s yours?”  And thus began a conversation that got Diane up that hill.  A trim, 69 year old grandfather, he puts in several miles each week, sometimes biking to Speculator, where his wife meets him and brings him back in the vehicle. When we got to the top of the hill, he gave us a good tip – take the newly resurfaced side road for about two thirds of downhill, until it loops back and joins the rough main highway.  Diane was in no mood to make a mistake, so she braked quite a bit on the downhill.  Rob threw caution to the wind, and hit 39 mph.   

 

Dinner at the nearby Subway, and a quick trip to the nearby Walmart for snacks and WD-40, then back to our motel, to gear up for tomorrow’s ride, which includes a ferry ride across Lake Champlain.

 Up the grade.

Reaching the top. Getting closer......

 

 

The Summit.

 

 Then cruising by lakes.

 

Always through fall colors.

 

 

 

 

Thursday, October 9.  Trenton to Speculator

Today we entered the Adirondacks.  The climb was steady but interspersed with downhills.  We covered the 51 miles in good order, mostly due to the very strong following wind.  It was also quite cold, which kept Diane motivated to complete the ride ASAP.  One lunch stop, and a couple comfort breaks, was all we took. 

The ride was absolutely gorgeous.  We saw a couple flocks of turkeys, and some single birds. A deer stood alongside the road;  Rob was already uphill from her and Diane was approaching.  Diane stopped and waited for the deer to decide what to do.  She crossed the road safely, and we continued on.  Black/ orange wooly caterpillars were out in force, all moving right to left.  Amazing.   

With a few minor exceptions the road surface was great, with clean six foot shoulders.  It was rewarding to not be rained on and to arrive to our motel by mid afternoon. 

Our motel is warmed with radiant heat from the floor up.  The first room we were assigned was at 62 degrees, so the clerk gave us another room which was at 70.  Perfect!  Instead of going out to dinner, Rob walked over to the convenience store and bought us home-made gluten-free chili, and tortilla chips, to which we added cheddar cheese, and microwaved them.  It was a delicious dinner! (While on a bicycle tour, for any particular day, everything is relative.) 

Tomorrow is a big day—about 72 miles, to Ticonderoga.  We think we can do this in about 8 hours of cycling, so an early start is mandatory.  Diane, just saying.

 

WD-40, a bicycle chains best friend.  Now we are ready to ride.

 

The Adirondacks are about trees and water.

 

Diane rode strong in the hills. 

 And we worked the gradual climbs as well.

The reward was a quick finish and in the Speculator motel way before sunset.

 

Grandparent's Delights

Wednesday, October 8.  Baldwinsville to Trenton (just outside Barneveld)

Oh, what a beautiful morning, oh, what a beautiful day (except for 2:00 -2:40pm or so). 

We were up and out and at the Canal Walk Café by 8 am to have breakfast with our son, his spouse and our two grandchildren.  Nina, Safira, Leneah, and Kris arrived moments later, and we had a wonderful time.  Diane was thrilled when Leneah ran to her with a huge smile on her face, and jumped into her Oma’s arms.  Rob enjoyed how he and Leneah jointly decided their order so they could share.  French toast for one, waffle for the other, and vice versa!  Safira is so darling, just a bit shy at first, but when it became time to part, she high-fived, waved bye-bye, and blew kisses.  We didn’t have much time to catch up with Kris and Nina, but enough to know they are thriving in their professions, and enjoying life. 

After goodbyes, it was time for good air and then we were off.  The day’s ride was cold, but Nina had brought us “winter-wear” so we were able to stay reasonably warm.  We had a strong southwesterly wind, which helped us to keep moving down the road. 

 

Diane hates to ride in the rain, so she kept her eye on the movement of the ever darkening clouds, with the aim to outrun the rain.  Rob said it would be okay to take a short inside break, so we stopped at a steakhouse at the intersection of 31 East and 365 East.  Unfortunately, that break let the rain clouds catch us.  A little further down the road, just outside of Rome, the downpour began.  We raced for a shelter, and the first thing we saw was a pumpkin stand, so we dove in under the cover and waited for the rain to end.  Rob was checking options and saw there was a Quality Inn about a mile down the road, which we could opt for if the rain did not stop.  But first Rob wanted to gauge the speed of the clouds.  Rob then announced it would take about 20 minutes to clear, and if nothing else intervened we would then continue our journey to Barneveld, another 16 miles down the road, where we had reservations at another Budget Inn.  Diane was disappointed because she wanted to be warm and dry sooner rather than later, and thought why not add those miles to the next day, which was shorter one.  Turns out that last segment had some big hills that would not have been a good start for the climb to Speculator the next day. 

 

Another benefit of staying with our itinerary was that when we arrived at the hotel, we saw a pizza place, Cugini (that did not show up on Google Maps).  Diane popped in to inquire whether they had gluten-free pizza.  They did, so the dinner question was decided.  Also not on Google Maps was a diner, Northern Villa Café, a block from the hotel, so the breakfast question was decided as well.  

All in all a short, a very successful day, with a short rain interlude in the middle.

 

Diane awaits the grandkids.

What can we say.  All smiles

Diane and Leneah.

Safira says, "I'll have fruit!"

 

In our effort to outrun the rain, only three more pictures were taken this day. 

The first was of this giant plastic bull in front of the Stampede Steakhouse. There were other interesting pieces of  "Americana" not photographed such as whole barnyard of large plastic farm animals, an Adopt a Highway sign sponsored by "Crook's legal services" and the Ho's Dinner, "home of the 10 cent cup of coffee and great service" - sometimes the world just overtakes you.

 

The second is Diane taking shelter from the rain. (No, she is not a happy bicyclist.)



 

And third, this tiled bathroom in our motel.  The Budget Inn seems to specialize in buying old motels and re-branding them.  This Budget Inn was a fairly nicely remodeled motor inn motel. The bathroom fixtures were new, but they had kept the original fired tiles and terracotta stone tile floor - definitely from the art deco era.